Joinery

Joinery Fundamentals: The First Hand-Cut Joints

Reading time: about 7 minutes Updated June 3, 2026

Joinery is just the set of methods used to hold two pieces of wood together. By hand, every joint comes down to two actions: cutting accurately to a marked line, and removing waste cleanly. The joints below are arranged from the most forgiving to the most demanding, which is also a reasonable order to practise them.

A finished hand-cut dovetail joint showing interlocking pins and tails
A completed dovetail. The interlocking shape resists pulling apart in one direction. Photo via Wikimedia Commons.

The butt joint

Two pieces simply meet, end to face or end to end, held with glue and sometimes a fastener or dowel. It carries little mechanical strength on its own, but it teaches squareness: if a butt joint shows a gap, the saw cut or the planed end is not truly square. Practising square crosscuts here pays off in every later joint.

Rabbets and dados

A rabbet is a step cut along an edge; a dado is a square-bottomed channel cut across the grain. Both are common in drawer bottoms, cabinet backs, and shelving. By hand they are usually cut with a saw to define the walls and a chisel or a specialised plane to clear the waste.

Practical note: mark joint depth with a marking gauge rather than a pencil. A scored line gives the chisel a wall to register against and produces a far cleaner shoulder.

Mortise and tenon

A tenon (a tongue) fits into a mortise (a matching hole). It is the backbone of frame-and-panel doors, tables, and chairs because it offers a large glue surface and resists racking. The mortise is chopped with a chisel; the tenon is sawn with the grain and trimmed to fit. The usual beginner mistake is a tenon cut too fat to enter; aim to saw on the waste side of the line and pare to fit.

The dovetail

Dovetails use angled pins and tails that lock together so the joint cannot pull apart in one direction, which is why they appear at drawer fronts. They are demanding because the angled cuts must be sawn accurately and the waste chopped to a clean baseline. They are worth learning slowly, after sawing to a line feels reliable.

  1. Mark the tails and saw down the angled lines.
  2. Remove the waste between tails with a chisel.
  3. Use the tails to mark the matching pins, then saw and pare.

A learning order that works